Putting on a great suit is revolutionary. Your shoulders are broadened; your lines are longer and leaner; your waist is now so trimmer. You look terrific, you feel fine. That’s, assuming you’ve got the right suit and you’ve got it tailored properly. As any man who spent the night in a boxy rental knows, there are very few items that are as good as a great suit. There are—at least in a sartorial sense—fewer things worse than poor ones. Since even a modestly priced off-the-rack number might look like a million bucks with the right nips and tucks, we will help you with six simple rules to get a perfectly tailored wedding suit.
Hem Your Trousers
This is the number one area most guys are going wrong when it comes to tailored suits. Even the A-List stars—who should know better—were known to leave things far too long. While you don’t actually have to accept the ankle-baring aesthetics of designers like Thom Browne, all that extra length doesn’t do much but make you look shorter and sloppier. Opt for a very slight break (the edge of your pants should only touch the tops of your shoes) for a look that will stand the test of time but still feel new.
Make sure that the shoulders fit
Your suit jacket’s shoulders should feel like they’re hugging your own. If they are noticeably tight, the jacket is too small. And if the shoulder seams go beyond the natural line of your body, as they do with far too many styles of working days, it’s too big. The shoulders are the one area that even the expert tailors are unwilling to mess with: it’s hard, costly, and can ruin your suit. Almost anything else can be adjusted, but if the shoulders aren’t spotted, it’s time to put them back on the shelf.
Hem your sleeves
The dilemma of over-long sleeves is somewhat less pervasive than the problem of pooling pants—but not less pernicious. Your jacket sleeve should end one-quarter-inch to one-half-inch before your shirt sleeve does. It’s all the easier to show a cuff sliver. If your jacket sleeve hits your knuckles, it’s too long. This is a simple and inexpensive repair if the buttons on the cuffs aren’t working; your suit tailor in Singapore will simply trim the cuffs up and shift them. If the cuffs feature working buttons, it’s a little more labor-intensive and expensive. The sleeve must be removed from the shoulder. Yet, it’s better than a knuckle-grazing alternative.
Slim the Sleeves, Taper the Trousers
A lot of guys have been tuned to the idea that going narrower on the trousers is a perfect way to lengthen the lines of a suit and build a tailored silhouette. Take a page from their book and put on your own pants. One thing you might not have known about is doing the same thing with your jacket sleeves. It’s a little more complicated, because the tailor is going to have to deal with the linen, so it’s going to make for a much more professional look in the long run. So, you know, it’s worth it.
Look for the Collar Gap
You may not be able to see it, but they will all be surrounding you. If you’re not well-tailored to your neck, the collar of your suit jacket will sit away from the collar of your shirt, leaving a space. This can happen for any number of reasons, and if it’s not too serious, the tailor can normally repair it. But anything more than a slight gap may be an issue. Watch out while you’re buying, and unless you’ve got an especially skilled tailor that you trust fully, keep it clear.
Take your jacket in the waist
Many suit jackets are made of a “democratic” cut, which is a pleasant way to say that they are built to fit men of a certain circumference around the middle part. If you’re not one of these guys, it also means that your jacket will look boxy before you’ve got your tailor in your waist. Don’t get too aggressive about this, though. Remember, you do need to be able to walk about. Aim to be able to fit a clenched fist between your jacket and shirt when the top button is closed.